When you have two different metals that are physically connected and lowered into sea water, they produce an electrical (dc) direct current. Current moves linking the two metals which can progressively corrode metals such as propeller shafts, submerged equipment and strainers in the engine room; everything that makes contact with the sea water.

The anode will be used to deliberately corrode away more rapidly than your other boat’s under water metal gear does.

At the top of the Galvanic Scale, Zinc is number 4, 1 being the most sacrificial to salt water, Aluminum is 12, Steel is 30, Brass is 51, 316 Stainless is 76 and pure Gold is 91. That is why zinc is preferred, we would like for it to corrode and preserve the other metal in contact with sea water.

Your trawler yacht’s zincs must be replaced when roughly 1/2 of the anode has been lost to decomposition. In a perfect world we want that to happen not more than one time a year but each trawler yacht is a bit different. I inspect my trawler yacht’s zincs often by diving below the boat and replacing those zincs that require it. When the trawler yacht is removed from the water, a new complete set is always installed.

Zincs are not all made in the same way. Demand MIL spec zincs. There is a company on my website Links page that I buy mine from. Unequaled zincs, at a very attractive price.

Props and Rudders

Propellers and prop shafts are routinely protected by a zinc collar bolted around the shaft. It is vital to ensure the shaft is clean and smooth prior to clamping the new zinc collar to it. You must have no bottom paint on the shaft at all.

Rudders and struts are also protected with zinc disks bolted directly to the metal. Be sure anti-foulant paint does not cover them now either.

Hull Plates

Hull plate zincs are mounted securely on the exterior of the hull and are used to bond the trawler yacht’s metals within the boat not out in the open to salt water.

Bonding is the linking as one the zinc plates bolted to the hull to other metals by wires. All of the submerged running gear and the metal in the engine compartment are linked to these plates. Be confident you check the bonding between thru-hulls and other metal gear by the use of a electrical ohm-meter .

Hull plates are as a rule found underwater at the stern of the boat.

Tip: If you spot “green” bronze gear, the bonding has not been successful and corrosion is in progress. Inspect and re- institute the bonding system.

Raw Water Cooling

Engine heat exchangers and engine raw water cooling systems are also in danger. Most heat exchangers are provided with a number of zinc “pencils”. You will detect them under brass plugs. The pencil is unscrewed from the plug for exchange. In addition, your transmission and oil coolers will be fixed with pencil zincs too

If you have owned your trawler yacht an adequate amount of time, you have had discussion on the docks about the topic of marine zincs for your boat, but what do they really do? How do they carry out their job?

When you have two different metals that are physically connected and lowered into sea water, they produce an electrical (dc) direct current. Current moves linking the two metals which can progressively corrode metals such as propeller shafts, submerged equipment and strainers in the engine room; everything that makes contact with the sea water.

The favored way to check galvanic corrosion is to attach a section of metal called a sacrificial anode, and it is typically a zinc alloy. In reality, many of us refer to sacrificial anodes purely as zincs. By using zinc anodes on your trawler yacht you will look after it considerably. The anode will be used to deliberately corrode away more rapidly than your other boat’s under water metal gear does.

At the top of the Galvanic Scale, Zinc is number 4, 1 being the most sacrificial to salt water, Aluminum is 12, Steel is 30, Brass is 51, 316 Stainless is 76 and pure Gold is 91. That is why zinc is preferred, we would like for it to corrode and preserve the other metal in contact with sea water.

Your trawler yacht’s zincs must be replaced when roughly 1/2 of the anode has been lost to decomposition. In a perfect world we want that to happen not more than one time a year but each trawler yacht is a bit different. I inspect my trawler yacht’s zincs often by diving below the boat and replacing those zincs that require it. When the trawler yacht is removed from the water, a new complete set is always installed.

Zincs are not all made in the same way. Demand MIL spec zincs. There is a company on my website Links page that I buy mine from. Unequaled zincs, at a very attractive price.

Props and Rudders

Propellers and prop shafts are routinely protected by a zinc collar bolted around the shaft. It is vital to ensure the shaft is clean and smooth prior to clamping the new zinc collar to it. You must have no bottom paint on the shaft at all.

Rudders and struts are also protected with zinc disks bolted directly to the metal. Be sure anti-foulant paint does not cover them now either.

Hull Plates

Hull plate zincs are mounted securely on the exterior of the hull and are used to bond the trawler yacht’s metals within the boat not out in the open to salt water.

Bonding is the linking as one the zinc plates bolted to the hull to other metals by wires. All of the submerged running gear and the metal in the engine compartment are linked to these plates. Be confident you check the bonding between thru-hulls and other metal gear by the use of a electrical ohm-meter .

Hull plates are as a rule found underwater at the stern of the boat.

Tip: If you spot “green” bronze gear, the bonding has not been successful and corrosion is in progress. Inspect and re- institute the bonding system.

Raw Water Cooling

Engine heat exchangers and engine raw water cooling systems are also in danger. Most heat exchangers are provided with a number of zinc “pencils”. You will detect them under brass plugs. The pencil is unscrewed from the plug for exchange. In addition, your transmission and oil coolers will be fixed with pencil zincs too.

Source

But anyone can place his ad out there as a marine surveyor; there are no regulations covering their operations. For that reason how do you go about discovering and picking a surveyor to examine your “new” used motor yacht? Let me propose some pointers.

If you are guided by a dependable yacht broker such as me, he will lead you through the series of steps to take. I am at ease with numerous marine surveyors that I will put forward as I’ve had dealings with them before and know their skills and capabilities. I will not decide on one for you however, as I don’t want any hint of a conflict of interest. The surveyor works only for you and you alone! He will not even send me a copy of the report unless you allow it.

There are several classes of surveys existing but for you as a procurer, the pre-purchase survey is the one you will need. It will also be the most encompassing type of survey, and is regularly requested by loan institutions and insurance underwriters when purchasing a used vessel. The used motor yacht’s physical condition will be vigilantly evaluated. The worth of the yacht will also be estimated by the marine surveyor.

If your agent provides you the names of several surveyors, ask about them, then scrutinize them yourself. Surveyors, as a rule, are members of one or more qualifications boards. SAMS, the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors is almost without doubt the one he will belong to in the US. SAMS gives schooling to surveyors and certifies them as to surveying different types of boats.

Step A– Preview the surveyor’s website if there is one available. Consider what his understanding is relative to your selected vessel.

Step B – Make contact with the surveyor personally; and ask about his ability to survey your chosen boat; how many other boats like yours has he evaluated? Will he offer customer referrals?

Step C – Make inquiries about how he performs his surveys. For instance, how does he decipher moisture readings, how does he check electrical systems, how does he carry out hull hydrolysis testing, how does he establish engine mechanical condition, by taking oil samples perhaps? Will he substantiate the Hull ID to make sure the used motor yacht is not stolen; ask that a pencil rubbing be done to give to the insurance company? Ask how long the survey will take and how much it’s going to cost you; and when you can anticipate getting the final written report. Are photographs built-in in the report? Will the written report be sent to you via electronic mail or by USPS? Ask plenty of questions to get a honest assessment that the person you are getting to evaluate your “new” boat is competent and has your concerns in mind.

Marine surveys convey first-class information on a used motor yacht’s’ condition, but they are not overall guarantees as to the status of the vessel’s condition. To achieve such a survey would have need of a complete dismantling of the whole vessel and we know that’s not reasonable. The surveyor’s written report will only contain the condition and operability of those easy to reach and see areas as they existed at the time of survey.

Source

Yacht Charters can often be amazing holidays, but many people are nervous about chartering with children. They worry that, aside from the obvious safety reasons, the kids will also be out of control because of insufficient space on board for the kids to play. But from experiencing many people who have chartered yachts with kids, this is almost never the case if properly planned. In fact children normally love the experience of being on a yacht, respect the rules, and are so fascinated by the experience that they are much better behaved than they would be if cooped up in a hotel room!

The boat choice is critical. We normally recommend catamarans, because they offer so much space, both inside and outside. Catamarans also don’t rock back and forth, making it a much more pleasurable cruise for the entire family, and there are no dangerous stairs to get from the cockpit to the galley. Once the kids adapt to the boat, they quickly learn that they will have plenty to do – a new beach every day, jumping off the back, snorkeling after turtles and fish, deserted islands to explore. It’s what kids are made for!

When chartering with children here are some basic suggestions:

* Define specific safety rules and make them very clear as soon as you get on the boat. Suggestions are: always wear life vests when not in the cockpit or indoors, never leave a boat without permission from an adult, no running or horsing around, no one up front without an adult.
* Kids are never in a dinghy alone, and should not use the motor unless they are over 16
* Make the sailing distances short, and give them plenty of time to play and run on the beach
* Rent a windsurfer or kayak, they’ll love it, and you can pull them behind the dinghy for endless hours of fun
* If you’re chartering a bareboat, hire a skipper to allow you to concentrate on your family, not on where to drop anchor
* Involve them and help them learn about the boat and how to sail. Show them the charts, instruments, switches, winches, ropes. Have them use the winch to tighten a sail and push the button for the anchor. The more you involve them, the more they’ll learn to love boats and sailing.

Source